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It seems a bit strange that a five-year-old eyewear brand is holding an exhibition that explores the Dacoz history of six hundred years of glasses. However, the direct-to-consumer eyewear brand Cubitts and its founder Tom Broughton are qualified for this task.


The exhibition, "Retrospective: London, Spectacles and Half and Millenia", opened on November 22nd at the St. James Market in London. In the next three months, visitors can see the classic glasses from the past through the glass, from the wooden Inuit Eskimo goggles to the Audrey Hepburn in Tiffany's Breakfast. Classic cat eye glasses.


One of the final exhibits was the "London Frame", which was made by Cubitts with historical relics from the Thames. The hair of the Tudor dynasty, the bullets of World War II, and the pieces of Bellamy glazed ceramics were immortalized in thick and clear resin. Like the city's quirky carols, Cubitts' brand names and logos, and glasses inspired by city squares, gardens and stables, everything is closely related to London's history, and the brand still produces all frames in London.


“It’s not commercially meaningful to create a pair of frames from London’s 600-year-old heritage.” Broughton told BoF that his team is making final arrangements for the exhibition. However, this maverick business decision seems to be good for Broughton.


The company's impressive growth proves that Cubitts is looking back and looking to the future. Broughton made his first frame on the kitchen table at King's Cross Street. Five years later, the company re-launched its initial business: Cubitts' custom and limited-edition frames were still produced in the area, which is also the company's lively The location of the seventh physical store of Coal Drops Yard. According to the data provided by the brand, Cubitts achieved sales of 5 million pounds (about 6.49 million US dollars) in the direct sales channel this year, and the income in 2017 also increased by 69%.


Cubitts is not the only brand that has made waves in the eyewear market. According to research and market forecasts, by 2023, the market will reach $177.8 billion. For a long time, the eyewear market has been monopolized by trademark holders such as Luxottica, Marcolin and Safilo, who are industry giants and hold optical product sales rights for brands such as Ray-Ban, Chanel, Prada, Dior and Fendi.


According to Karolina Zlotkovska, a fashion analyst at Euromonitor, the two sources of disturbance are the luxury brand's return to business control – LVMH and Kering Group began implementing this in April 2018 and September 2014, respectively. Operations – and existing licensed companies acquire brands that are directly consumer-oriented. Zlotkovska told BoF editors: "The increasing number of independent players has finally made them potential targets for trademark holders to further expand their portfolios."


Regardless of how small they are in the market, direct selling brands like Cubitts are having an impact on the industry. According to Mario Ortelli, managing partner of luxury consultancy Ortelli & Co, “old companies must take their brand direct investment projects seriously and expand their market share.” He pointed out that Luxottica is already implementing this with brands such as Ray-Ban. An operation. “They realized that the direct-to-consumer strategy is not the future direction of the optical industry, but it can take advantage of it now.” For a company, not investing in this area will be short-sighted. ”


Independent brands such as Cutler and Gross, Illesteva, Moscot and Linda Farrow have succeeded in direct sales and wholesale channels by combining unique design with craftsmanship. But since Warby Parker pioneered its direct-to-consumer industry model in 2010, the market has become overcrowded and new players are eager to disrupt the original order.


Founded in 2011 by Hankook Kim, this Seoul-based company is known for its 20 state-of-the-art flagship stores and an active atmosphere of collaboration with celebrities. The brand is currently working with other industries in partnerships, from glasses and raincoats with Chinese designer Zhou Xiangyu, to the music and visual album sung by Kanye West and Pharrell. Issued in January 2019.


Another competitor of Cubitts is the Paris eyewear brand Jimmy Fairly, which launches 15 to 20 new eyewear models every month. The brand has 29 stores and plans to open another 35 in 2019. Antonin Chartier, co-founder and president of the company, told BoF: "We hope to be the leader in European high fashion glasses within five years."


However, unlike other direct-to-consumer competitors, Cubitts doesn't focus on the milestone-driven model—whether it's the number of stores it opens or the style it's on the shelves. As CEO, Broughton said: "We release a new product every month, but we will also retire an old product." This quality is better than the quantity of mindset determines the business scope of Cubitts and how it grows. - Paradoxically, the brand's success is largely due to its well-managed brand image and customer experience over sales.


Broughton said: "It is very easy to achieve rapid growth. The world is full of companies that have experienced rapid growth and then collapsed. Although Cubitts has five points of sale including Liberty and Porter, Broughton firmly believes that in order to be distributed Channel control is minimal, and he will continue to carefully select retailers. “Running a company in a wholesaler model, you will not be able to get customer feedback, plan user experience, and tell stories about products. Every week, many merchants contact us. We can open 500 sales points immediately, but is this really good for the company? I don't think so. ”


This upcoming exhibition revolves around Cubitts' commitment to telling the brand story, even if it means including other brands. In addition to presenting Cubitts' own style, the retrospective development includes well-known brands such as Anglo American Optical and Cutler and Gross, which are the firm pillars of British eyewear history.


“We are promoting other eyewear brands because we don’t think they are competitors. When you are doing something that is both difficult and time consuming, you tend to share the same values.”


Broughton refers to providing a highly customized service that is an integral part of its business. The obsession with fine-tuning the customer experience means visual inspection in seven London stores in Cubitts, providing an online mobile virtual try-on function and using head-shaping techniques to 3D scan the consumer's skull for optimal performance. wearing performance. In addition, in order to reduce waste, customers can take the frame to the Cubitts store for free maintenance.


Cubitts' nuanced, customer-focused philosophy is that it is consciously opposed to rapid growth; the brand replaces Black Friday's promotions with glasses that are printed with the words “Death of Capitalism”. Although the brand is eager to enter the US and Japan, but Broughton is not eager to do so, he said that Cubitts will Newchic Coupon definitely open a number of new stores in 2019, but (less than) six, on the grounds that the brand lacks certainty. Sexual opportunistic tendencies. "We have grown a lot, but we are still small. I want to make us stronger, not puffy."


For the same reason, Broughton insists that Cubitts will never set up a storefront in the mall, use net red for marketing, and will not participate in limited time snaps or flash stores. "Immediate satisfaction can be at the expense of long-term growth." He told BoF, "I hope that Cubitts can exist for a hundred years."

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